Schiaparelli’s Artistic Director, Daniel Roseberry asks what is the definition of Surrealism in the new collection for SS 2022. After two years, Schiaparelli’s return to the runway has been met with praise as Roseberry unfolds his vision for a “Goddess on Earth” as his muses stroll down the runway in 24 – Karat Gold gilded pieces, razor-sharp black silhouettes, and white dresses.
Maison Schiaparelli is known as a “master of the modern” where fashion brings a sense of hope in times of uncertainty and chaos. The gravity-defying elements contribute to the ethereal and mythical feel of the collection. The fashion house’s commitment to fantasy makes Schiaparelli a notable conveyor of fashion amongst the usual red-carpet glam looks the public is used to seeing. The collection was conceived in April of 2021 when, as Roseberry notes, there were “times of hope” after the world opened up for travel once again. The silhouettes of Schiaparelli often feature the use of vibrant colours and volume. However, the brand took a different direction for their latest runway show using mostly black, white and gold.
The shade of gold used throughout the collection has been specifically formulated for the Maison, with the use of 24k gold leaf pieces. The golden elements are first created in foam and clay and later wrapped in tissue-weight leather. Afterwards, the elements are given a thin layer of 24k gold leaf and embossed with vintage crystals and cabochons. Some of the elements are made using metal sheets to ensure the pieces are sturdy yet floating around the silhouette.
Daniel Roseberry explains his enlightenment moment during the creation of his collection for the Maison as he realised what fashion truly meant for him. His main motive for designing is to move the audience, to tell a story in an haute couture manner whilst maintaining Schiaparelli’s historical heritage of avant-garde storytelling using fashion. The brand continues to push the boundaries of conventional fashion under Roseberry’s artistic direction and intrigue the fashion world.
Kalina Magureva – Contributing Fashion Writer