For this Fall-Winter Collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri presented the latest work of the atelier in a medley between the past, present, and future. The designer re-introduced a dark, cutting edge to a garment that has been making a comeback as of late — The Corset.
The Next Era* is the title of the work Mariella Bettineschi imagined for the Dior ready-to-wear fall-winter 2022-2023 show, wherein the Italian artist proposes a gallery of paintings composed of large-scale portraits of women from the history of painting from the 16th to the 19th century. Their cut up, stacked eyes question the judgment that has conditioned – and still conditions – women past and present. The gaze is reversed to suggest another reading of art history. This “framework” of the fashion show breathes life into Maria Grazia Chiuri’s concepts; notably (re)constructing a performative relationship between the body and the garment in a technical, aesthetic perspective, in a succession of operations associating forms, savoir-faire, materials and futuristic technologies.
Partnering up with Italian artist Mariella Bettineschi, the Dior ready-to-wear fall-winter stage was an ode to a time gone by. Large-scale portraits of women from historical periods ranging from the 16th to the 19th century set the tone for what lay ahead as the models strolled down the runway in dystopian re-inventions of the classic Dior staples. The Bar Jacket, for instance, was transformed into a system that regulates body temperature.
Each piece completed a variety of looks – such as belts with multiple pockets, or the adjustable laced corset – completing many outfits. The skirts were re-invented in a sartorial manner that even the modern-day Lady Dior would find herself wearing the adjustable corset as a daily essential.
According to Chiuri, ‘This collection seeks to express the complexity of fashion that revisits heritage in order to conceive the lines of tomorrow. A journey that shapes the artefacts of a new world, another world, to be made and invented.’
* The Next Era, art installation by Mariella Bettineschi. ** D-Air lab is an Italian start-up founded in 2015 by Lino Dainese.
Architect Silvia Dainese Gris is leading this special project for Dior.
For more on Dior: www.dior.com
Article Written by Cyan Dacasin | Managing Editor